Where should you climb this weekend? And when will conditions be best? Our new Conditions feature helps you find the right crag at the right time.

More than a weather forecast
Conditions looks at what the weather means for the rock: how quickly it dries after rain, how wind and humidity affect friction, and when the sun reaches the wall (where available). It also learns from the days when climbers have sent at each crag, so predictions reflect what works at that particular crag.

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See the weather forecast for today and the next days, along with today's climbing conditions at a glance. In the sidebar next to the ascent lists, the crags you follow are ranked by their predicted conditions.

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Find the best conditions at crags near you (25–200 km), in a climbing area like Arco or Frankenjura, or across an entire country. Compare the coming days with hour-by-hour condition scores up to six days ahead, the best time to climb each day, recent rainfall, and sun on the wall (where available). As always, all premium features are on display for free at Massone.

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Maggie Kompein has, after only six sessions, completed Speed Integral (9a) in Voralpsee. The almost 40 meter five star route was FA’ed by Cedric Lachat as an extension to Beat Kammerlander’s Speed (8c+). The 21-year-old sent her first two 8c’s in 2020 and has later focused more on competition and in 2024 she got the bronze in the World Youth Championships.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
The route came together quite quickly overall. I managed to figure out all the moves during my first session, although I had tried the route briefly before, so I already had some idea of the sequences.

From there, things progressed pretty smoothly, and I was able to link more and more of the route with each session. The trickiest part for me was between the fifth and sixth bolt. The moves themselves weren’t particularly hard, but I kept making silly mistakes there.

On my first go of the sixth session, everything finally came together perfectly. It’s a really long route, so managing the pump is a big part of the challenge. Luckily, that went pretty well for me, and I was able to keep it together until the top. It felt amazing to climb the whole thing and finally tick this one off!

Claudia Ghisolfi, with two 9a’s under her harness, has sent Alone (9a) and Abyss (8c+) in Gorges du Loup.

Can you tell us more about those ascents?
At the beginning of the year, I was really out of shape. The competition season started earlier than in previous years; I needed to be in form by April, whereas I'm usually in shape from June onwards. I tried to change my training routine, but the only result was that I felt more tired, and I wasn't in shape by June either. [She did not make the World Cup selections and for the first time since her debut in 2012, she did not compete in the WC.]

In July, I spent a month in Arco and trained at the federal center. It was very hot, but they have air conditioning there. On cooler days, I did some rock climbing at the crags, and little by little, I started getting back into shape.

Before that month of training, I spent a week in June at the Arche. My boyfriend, Alessio Voghera, pushed me to try the pitches that make up the 9a (it's a link-up of multiple pitches). So, I flashed the 8a, and then did the 8b and 8b+.

After the month of training, I sent the 8c and went to check out the final section of the 9a. In August, we went to Rodellar for two weeks, where we both sent Così fan tutte 8c+. Once I got back home, I started trying the 9a again on weekends, driving back and forth between Turin and Gorges du Loup. Then, I took five days off in October, and on October 15th, I sent my third 9a.

When I was trying the Alone at L'Arche, since it's a twenty-minute walk from Déversé, I used to stop under Abyss on my way back to the car and think, 'One day I'll try it.' During my last sessions on Alone, when I was close to sending it, I couldn't give it too many goes because of the 90 moves of the route. So, I decided to do one burn a day on Abyss just to figure out the beta, without getting too tired. I probably gave it about three tries without focusing too much. After clipping the chains on Alone, I dedicated myself 100% to Abyss and sent it in about ten total attempts. I didn't think I'd be in good shape for short routes, since Alone has 90 moves. Instead, I felt comfortable on Abyss right away. I love pinches, so it's totally my style.

Daniel Woods, with 146 boulders 8B+ to 9A to his name, has repeated Austin Purdy’s Sword Of Damocles (8C+) in Mount Blue Sky. The hike in takes 45 minutes and the hike out 90 minutes. He has made the walk around 20 times, roughly half of them alone, including doing Gateway (8C). ”The hiking is very steep and involves sections of loose talus.” (c) Chris Cosser

The 37-year-old has won the US Nationals eight times in a row and has also claimed one World Cup victory. With the rope he has completed 16 routes graded 9a or harder.

Can you tell us more about the ascent?
I could only try the line once a week due to unpredictable weather and the toll this place puts on your body. The Mt. Blue Sky road closes when October rolls around and the temps get good. You are allowed to bike the road, so I got myself an e-bike and prolonged the season. Now I had to add a 10 mile bike ride to the already epic hike.

Once temps finally started to shape up, I continued to have issues with the crux move. I would climb the intro every time, but fall due to stick issues. I could do the crux in isolation most every time (friction was good). To me, the crux holds offered such a finicky friction that I was finding it difficult to understand how to make this move work from the start. Finally, It snowed in the alpine and created what I was looking for. Cold and slightly humid came into play and I was able to send. When the climb went it felt chill, but that’s due to the numerous days I spent rehearsing and refining the moves. The climb is a perfect balance of tech and power. Reminds me of an old school friction nightmare test piece. You cannot just grab and go. Gotta be patient and understand the nuance of the friction style grips.

What is next?
Mmm something, I could add would be this zone taught me a lot about patience. It is a very involved and difficult area to be in. Your body is thrashed from the hiking and altitude and then you have to climb on lines that are physically demanding. Had to switch the head into survival mode each time and really want it.

Sonnie Trotter has repeated Connor Herson’s Midnight Way (9a+) in Squamish. The 46-year-old Canadian was one of the leading trad climbers in the world some 20 years ago and he is also famous for putting up and repeating hard big walls.

When and why did you first take the challenge?
I love long gently overhanging climbs and this wall has some of the best I’ve ever seen. The immaculate granite face is 100% natural and that enticed me a lot. It’s a dream crag.

I did the first half of the climb in the spring of 2024 (called Spirit Quest 9a) as a challenge with Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, we did a fun “gentlemen’s race” to 9a. You can watch the video on YouTube:)

But after completing that climb in June, I immediately started wondering if I could do its harder extension the ‘Midnight Way’ (which Connor Herson had climbed later that summer of 2024). After maybe 10 sessions on it I knew I could do it, but I didn’t ever know if the “stars would align” so that I would actually do it. I was not getting any younger, and it was no longer our local crag, since my family and I moved back to Canmore, AB, which is about a 10 hour drive away.

How was the progress and how many sessions were needed?
I basically only tried it during the spring and fall. Sometimes during family trips. Winter was too cold and too wet and summer was too hot and humid. Overall I think it took another 30-35 days after doing Spirit Quest (the 9a). So maybe a total of 60-65 days if I include them all together.

What was the key to finally send it?
I needed at least 12 months to gain the extra conditioning, and I also needed some consistent weather and a consistent routine on the climb. I also needed my body to be healthy, my skin to be perfect, and temps to be cool enough so that my body didn’t overheat on the long 35m climb. It was hard to keep my heart rate low.

What is next?
I think I’m going to take a mini break from projecting. Honestly, I’m not sure if I’ll ever take on something like this again. I want to climb a lot more other routes in different styles and I’d like to do them much faster as well, ha ha. I would also like to boulder more again, and climb fun adventure routes in the mountains. More discovery, and first ascents.

Why do you think it is possible that some climbers set personal best at 40+?
That's an easy question but with a more complex answer. Yes, this is the hardest "number" I have climbed (I'm turning 47 on November 15th), but I think if I had tried this climb at 26 I certainly would have completed it MUCH faster. But it didn't exist back then, ha ha. In fact there were NO 5.15's at all in Canada at that time.

I will also say that in our 20's, we often have less distractions in life and less responsibilities, and I could climb many more days in a row without rest, likely with more power and more stamina too. Today, I think I am more patient with climbing, and I can make up for that with years of experience and compound growth, and I was able to accept that this was a longer term project, I was committed to the process regardless of how long it might take, even if I were to never succeed. So, all that to say that I enjoyed the adventure along the way, and that's helped a lot. It's a 5 star route.

Ola Vekve, who two weeks ago did an 8c+ personal best, has done the first ascent of Kjernekraft (9a+) in Julsundet. ”9a/+. Very difficult to grade, since I have no experience at this level, and I also fly through the first part. I'm basing my assessment partly on Darth, which is graded 9a+, but I feel this route might be a little easier and could be considerably easier for taller climbers.” (c) Terje Aamodt

What is your climbing background?
So I have climbed my whole life pretty much, but from the age of 12-13 I started doing it as my main sport. I’ve mostly done competitions these years, but I really enjoy outdoor climbing as much as I enjoy competing.

Can you tell us more about the first ascent?
I spotted the line September last year, but it got put on hold until June this year. Me and my father went out to bolt it, and I started trying it straight away. After working out the top, I started giving burns from the ground. After a few sessions with tries from the bottom I could finally send the route. I don’t really have any experience with these grades, but this is the first time I’ve climbed something that has felt close to my limit.

Nigel Armino, with three 9a’s under his harness, has sent Action Directe (9a) in Frankenjura. Wolfgang Güllich put up the route in 1991 as the world’s first 9a and part of the training was done on his new invention - the campus board. It has been repeated around 35 times and noteworthy is that many considered it 8c+/9a during the first years. Interestingly, is that almost all repeaters have opted not to use the original 16 move beta but instead sent it with an 11-13 moves easier sequence.

Can you tell us more about the ascent and what went into completing it?
It’s been quite a journey with this route. I actually ruptured my pulley on Action Directe back on April 25, 2023, so finally sending it now makes it extra special. I put a lot of time into the route in the summer of 2025, then stepped away from it for a while. This autumn I came back fully focused on finishing it.

Last week I was here with my girlfriend Lynn and already got really close. This week I came back with my friend Jochem, knowing it was basically my last chance to try it this year. So there was definitely some pressure, but apparently that was what I needed!

One thing that really helped was the preparation. I built a replica of the route at my home gym, the National Climbing Center in Nieuwegein, and spent quite some time training specifically on it. Last Saturday I made a micro-adjustment on the right-hand pocket: I started taking it in a half crimp instead of dragging it. That small tweak made the big move to the left feel way more controlled. Funny enough, that’s the exact same pocket where I ruptured my pulley back in 2023, so getting that detail right felt pretty significant. Sunday it rained all day, so we had a forced rest day. Today everything was completely dry and the conditions were perfect.

Standing on top of Action Directe after all the time and effort I’ve put into it felt pretty surreal. I’ve climbed several routes around this grade now, but this one definitely means something different because of the history I have with it. And of course, I’m super proud to be the first Dutchman to send it!

How dangerous is it to skip the fourth clip as can be seen in your Insta video?
It is ok. I fell couple of times going to the left, but I think if you slip at the top (from the jugs) it is dangerous.

Which beta did you use?
I used the new-style beta, going from the sidepull to the mono. However, I didn’t use the clip-mono halfway up the route; my beta is similar to the one Vojtech used, but instead of jumping to the sidepull, I used a toehook. For the top part, I used the Ghisolfi triple left hand bump.

What is next?
2 weeks climbing in Leonideo with my girlfriend and there are a lot of other 9a and 9a+’s I want to try in the FJ next season. So more volume climbing in Greece.

Cy McInto$h, who this year has done his first two 9a+’, has made the first ascent of Keep Feeding Ya (9a) in Refrigerator Canyon. ”This one’s special. 3/4ths of my dream line. Quinn bolted it in 2021 and it took me 5 years to reach his level of vision. Last weekend I fell with the anchors in my face 3 times in a row and I thought that was it for the season. But, graciously Tony took work off to come belay me and I was able to get it done. Left town at noon and was at the York Bar by 4:00. I love this life! I love this Line! The extension will be KING!!!!”

Can you tell us more about the first ascent and the potential extension?
As long as I’ve been climbing at refrigerator canyon there’s been an obvious mega line. 60 meters of roof climbing to a beautiful blue streak. In 2021 my friend bolted it 3/4s of the way out the roof. This year I finally stopped messing around on other routes and got the project cleaned up. It took me about 2 months of projecting the route every weekend. I thought it was it for the season. But on Tuesday I took work off and graciously so did my buddy Tony to come belay me. I got it done first try that day on what was likely my last chance this year.

The extension [bolted by Cy] goes to the top of the cliff through the blue streak. In my opinion it’s gotta be one of the most mega projects in the country. I’d love to see other strong climbers come out and try the routes here. I haven’t tried it yet but it adds another 15 meters of really hard roof climbing into a 10 meter 7b headwall.

Andrea Lostia di Santa Sofia, who the last two years has done his first 13 routes 8c+ and beyond, has done Not so Isili (9a+) in Sardinia. ”The hardest route of my life.”

What is your story behind sending your hardest route ever?
This whole process started last year with my FA of Terzo Tempo, which at the time I thought to be 9a. In search for harder lines through the roof, me Giorgio and Diego added two connection bolts to connect all the lines. The first line we freed traversing the roof was Free Bronx 8c+, the low hanging fruit. But this allowed us to imagine two more harder lines, starting from Terzo Tempo’s intro boulder (~8A+) and traversing the roof the opposite way. Gianluca came to Sardinia and freed them both, downgrading Terzo Tempo to 8c+ in the process.

The first line he freed is Nara Cixiri 8c+/9a and the second, harder route is Not So Isili 9a+.

Not so Isili climbs Terzo Tempo’s intro boulder then traverses along Free Bronx, including its first crux backwards, then after a small rest it tackles La Signora con la Falce’s crux (~7C+).

What is that white cord connected to the quickdraw for??
To avoid rope drag I had to stack quickdraws at turning points in the route, I even used core strands from used rope ends to get quickdraws to stay where I wanted them for optimal clipping.

Kayotani Ritsu, with five 8C+’ to his name, has repeated Nathaniel Coleman’s No One Mourns the Wicked (9A) at Thunder Ridge. The third repeater Yannick Flohe gave it a personal 8C+ grade which later also Hamish McArthur has agreed upon. (c) Toshi Takeuchi